The Sea of Cortez is an interesting place. We started diving here many years ago when giant mantas were common and multiple schools of hammerhead sharks would swirl around El Bajo. Commercial fishermen hit the place really hard in the 1990’s before the government of Mexico enacted exclusionary zones and marine protected area. Our beautiful sea has come back to life but it is different than before. Whale sharks are still resident seasonally off La Paz. The sea lions at Los Islotes were never impacted. Humpback whales still show up every winter. And the huge schools of panamic fish are as abundant as ever before. We are seeing hammerhead sharks at El Bajo and Los Animas and mantas at La Reyna although not as abundantly as before. We finally figured out where the humboldt squid are and it’s quite a trek to get there! We discovered the stunning number of whale sharks at Bahia de Los Angeles in the northern Sea of Cortez. And there is an excellent chance of seeing bull sharks at Cabo Pulmo. It’s not Socorro. It’s not Guadalupe Island. The Sea of Cortez is a unique and different destination with it’s own charm – and generally calm water .